Revolution Day in Puerto Vallarta

It will be a long week of celebration in Puerto Vallarta this year for Revolution Day, with banks closed on November 18 and 20, schools being given the holiday, and some businesses taking the days to close and relax before the high season is upon us. Some will even turn it into a puente (bridge in Spanish), meaning they will take a vacation for the days off and the one in between, making it a five day holiday, including the weekend. This will bring a lot of Nationals coming into town, so the beaches will be busy.

Revolution Day observes call to the end of the reign of Porfirio Díaz, after thirty-five years as president of Mexico. It’s hard for us to imagine any one person being in this high office for such a long period of time. When a wealthy landowner, Francisco I. Madero tried to oppose Díaz in the 1910 presidential election, the president had him imprisoned to put a stop to what he considered a futile attempt to overturn his incumbency. Madero escaped however, fled to San Lius Potosi and declared the election results that had favored Díaz fraudulent and himself, Madero as the provisional president. It was on this day, November 20, 1910 that Mexicans drew their forces together against Díaz.

You will hear people in Puerto Vallarta shouting all day, louder and longer into the night Viva la Revolución! and Viva Mexico! A parade, of course, will begin in the morning, traditionally down the Malecón, coming from the north on Ignacio Vallarta. It’s a fun parade with the usual dressed up horses and riders, and groups of kids dressed like revolutionaries. Mariachi bands will be on hand to play songs about the heroes of the war, and many rounds of the rousing “Guadalajara” and “Mexico Lindo y Querido” will be heard, along with “Cielito Lindo.” It’s a good time to buy a Mexican flag; they will be for sale in all sizes.

The Mexican Revolution was a war that lasted seven years and brought about lasting change. The Mexican constitution was created at the end of the war, and set term limits for politicians. The office of the president in Mexico, called a sexenio, is limited to one six year term and anyone who has been elected or held the post as caretaker is never allowed to serve again. Among other things set forth in the constitution were labor reform laws, limiting eight hour workdays, the abolishment of child labor, and equal pay. During the revolution many Mexicans fled with their families to the United States, in search of safety, security, food, and jobs. A lasting effect of what has been estimated to be approximately one million legal migrants, along with a number who were undocumented, led to the introduction of the border patrol.

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Walking Tours in Puerto Vallarta

Walking tours are the way to go in any city. Whenever we vacation in a new location, we seek out walking tours, the best way to learn about a place, its people, food, and culture. In Puerto Vallarta, we have Vallarta 101, a walking tour, in which you pay what you can afford. Some people have found their walks with a guide so valuable, they dish out as much as $50 USD per person, but you aren’t obligated to spend that much. You can pay as little as $5 USD, and still feel like a proper tourist. Mind you, these walks are first class and the experience is for everyone, young and old alike. The guides take you to unique places you’d rarely discover on your own. A normal tour is usually around two to three hours and you don’t pay until the end, giving you the chance to decide what your tour is worth to you. Locals with a command of English and Spanish will be your guides.

Walks last about an hour and a half and vary in their experiences. Some involved food, which you will receive advice on what to order and pay out of your own pocket (normally between $5 to $10 USD), or you could have a foodless tour. Old Town 101 is described as “a stroll with a friend through Vallarta’s most diverse and changing neighborhood”; Downtown 101 is comprised of the same but focuses on the historic and traditional neighborhoods. Small groups of up to six people make it easy to hear the guide and not miss any important details. Tours start at Los Arcos Amphitheater, across from the main plaza by the cathedral. The specific meeting place is by the benches and can be easily reached via taxi, Uber, bus or walking. A light rain will not deter plans for tours, but inclement weather will cancel the event.

A good example of a walk is the taco vegetarian stroll, where participants will visit up to five tacos locations in El Centro and Old Town that offer vegetarian fare. (There are also taco walks centering on meat and seafood.) On these walks, you’ll be advised on how to put together the tastiest taco with the most representative and authentic selections. You’ll walk away with confidence to order your own, both at street stands and in restaurants, plus be aware of pricing. There are no credit card exchanges so make sure to bring cash; dollars or pesos. For photos and more information, check out Vallarta 101 on Facebook and Instagram.

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Gourmet Festival in Puerto Vallarta

(this is from previous years, but the information is still useful) There are Food Festivals around the world in all major cities that tempt travelers and locals. Then there’s the Gourmet Festival in Puerto Vallarta, often attended annually by folks who come back year after year. It is a glamorous week of dining with an unrivaled opening ceremony that will take place this year at the beautiful convention center of Vidanta Nuevo Vallarta, an experience in itself. Enticing chef presentations will be surrounded by food, drinks, and charming, traditional music. This being the 25th Anniversary of the Puerto Vallarta Gourmet Festival, we expect to see some splendid culinary displays. Supported by local restaurants, small businesses, and corporate sponsors in Puerto Vallarta, this experience can be as lavish or simple as the food aficionado chooses for their individual palate.

Guest chefs will be showing off their talents throughout the city in various restaurants, where diners can expect fresh offerings from the creative minds or some of the finest gourmet palates from around the globe. Beginning at 6:00 pm on Wednesday, November 20th, participants in the festival will serve delightful surprises to those seeking to be pampered by the art of cooking. A Great Day with Big Chefs takes place on this day with the Three Musketeers of Puerto Vallarta Gourmet; Thierry Blouet, Heinz Reize and Roland Menetrey sharing a stove top, with the usual shenanigans and laughs. It’s a bargain at $1,700 pesos.

Starting at 11:00 am on Friday, November 20th, the Gourmet Festival Puerto Vallarta will present a Culinary Forum, which is a must for those interested in learning the art of gastronomy. Professional chefs, some who have traveled from afar, will share their experiences and ideas.

Several restaurants will be presenting Theme Nights, not to be missed. Café de Artistes leads off on Thursday, November 21st, with Azafrán, Kaiser Maximilian, Trio, Stars Gourmet Grill, and other establishments joining in this entertaining format.

We suggest going on a restaurant Safari Gourmet, visiting four locations, one following the other in a progressive dinner, which will include beverages for the price of $2,850 pesos, which is a steal, in our humble opinion.

The Festival will begin to close on November 23rd with Xocodiva’s Cult to Chocolate, from 11:00 am to 3:00 pm. With a price tag of $1,050, we wouldn’t dare to miss this affair, which will embrace the love of chocolate, with a host of tastes all across the flavor spectrum. The Grand Finale will take place at Flamingos Mozzamare Beach Club in Nuevo Vallarta, with a stylish, luxurious reception. The theme for the evening is seafood, fresh from the ocean to your table.

Reservations are required for most of these events and tickets are mandatory for scheduled events. For more information and a link to buy tickets for individual events, see www.festivalgourmet.com.

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Humpbacks!

Our beautiful humpback whales are back in Puerto Vallarta, gracing the Bay of Banderas with their amazing ballet in the ocean. There are many ways to schedule a boat ride out on the water and we recommend exploring the options before embarking on your adventure. Check with vendors on the Beach at Los Muertos in the vicinity of the pier, or with the concierge in your hotel. We enjoy going out on the smaller boats (pangas), rather than the big booze cruise vessels. The skippers are knowledgeable, have lived here all of their lives, and know more interesting information about whales than we could ever find in Wikipedia. The season for whale watching in Puerto Vallarta began December 8, 2019 and will officially go through March 23, 2020.

It’s important to be on an authorized boat and we suggest asking to see their permit before handing over tickets. They won’t be offended. Local fishermen and dive masters are environmentally ethical for the most part. There are few rogues in the boating industry here in Puerto Vallarta. You should be asked to don life jackets, as well and though you may be the best swimmer on either side of the border, go ahead and show everyone else how responsible you are. It’s a coast guard rule and you’ll be showing respect for the captain.

It’s easy to spot a humpback, with their obvious hump and long black dorsal fins. The fluked tail is their trademark and what you will be looking for on the water. Once you spot them, get your photos done quickly and then sit back to watch the show. The rising tail with the sea waterfalling from the wavy edges is thrilling and something many will never see again in a lifetime. It’s Mother Nature at her best.

Although the blue whale is the largest animal in the world, humpbacks follow close behind in size. When fully grown the males average 45 feet and the females are larger and can get up to 52 feet. Whaling records show the largest to be seen was a female that was, unfortunately killed in the Caribbean. She was allegedly 89 feet long and weighed just short of 100 tons. The typical body mass of a humpback is typically over 40 metric tons.

Winter is courting season in the world of humpbacks. They feed in the winter, closer to the poles, and then come to honeymoon around the equator. We are the lucky ones to witness their astonishing breaching, a show of fierce competition in an effort to mate.

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Airport Arrivals Just Got Better!

Few things excite us as much as arriving in Puerto Vallarta. Coming in over the mountains from the north, with an approach toward the sea, where Lic. Gustavo Díaz International Airport has been receiving visitors since November 1954, when Mexicana Airlines landed their first plane in Puerto Vallarta. It’s always a thrill to land and feel the excitement in the air of both tourists and those returning home. Nearly thirty years after the first airplane landed here, we would make our first ascent into Puerto Vallarta, standing in the hot sun, waiting to check through immigration and enter the terminal to find our luggage. Over the years, as we’ve seen the airport expand and watched the many changes and expansions; Lic. Gustavo Díaz International Airport has become very similar to ports all over the world and has lost its back-to-nature charm. We are happy to have restrooms with flushing toilets and air conditioning but we do miss the old days, even if the inconveniences were annoying.

Since those early days, coming through immigration has become a long and arduous process. Even though the lines move quickly, it seems there are more people in the queue every year. Some have trouble with the forms they’ve been given to fill out while still in flight; others can’t find their passport; many are confused about where to go and how the columns are expected to file through. Delighted to be in Puerto Vallarta, they are anxious for an icy cold beer or margarita.

Exactly sixty-five years after that first landing in Puerto Vallarta, news has reached us that major improvements for entering the country are under way. There will be an increase of fourteen new customs officers, which is nearly double, during high volume times in December through the duration of high season. Music to our ears is commitment for the acquisition of new equipment for baggage inspection, similar to that used by TSA, higher tech and more efficient. We understand this is temporary until a review will be done to establish service standards, which will expedite arrivals moving through the customs area, as well. Current equipment is archaic compared to many airports of which tourists are departing from, and to where they will return.

In the discovery that some arriving tourists stand in lines for hours, the Director of the General Customs Administration vowed to make things better by partnering with the government, business sector and airport administration. He is determined to see that moving people around and exercising expediency so that they can get to the beach, will be high on his priority list.

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Meet You at the Movies

Puerto Vallarta has always been big on movies, for locals, expats and tourists alike. From the old Bahia in the middle of town (now sadly gone), to the huge multiplexes in the malls, there has never been a shortage of places to catch up on a film. We’ve had a couple of fabulous film festivals over the years, with both English and Spanish language, and an occasional nod to the French. Democrats Abroad have been putting on their own series for eleven years to date, and they are excited to start a new season for 2019 – 20.

Incanto, the charming cabaret in Puerto Vallarta at Calle Insurgentes 109, right next to the Rio Cuale, will be hosting the Democrats Abroad’s movies this year. With a 3:00 pm film time on Wednesdays, there should be no conflicts with evening events. This time slot also gives patrons a chance to dine before or after. Big pluses are the bar service at Incanto, serving beer, wine and mixed drinks to movie-goers, as well as their nice comfy seating.

The list of films is very appealing, starting on December 4th with White Crow, the story of the incredible Russian ballet dancer, Rudolf Nureyev and his daring defection to the United States. Following through the season you won’t want to miss Boy Erased, Apollo 11, they Shall Not Grow Old, Divide and Conquer: The Story of Roger Ailes, The Wife, Echo in the Canyon, If Beale Street Could Talk, The River and the Wall, Cold War, Free Solo, On the Basis of Sex, The Biggest Little Farm, and tying up with major hit dramedy, The Farewell.

The above list is a very diverse selection of great films that have been released in the past year; nothing stale here. The variety runs everything from deep drama to hilarious comedy, some claiming both of these attributes in the same movie, hence the moniker dramedy. There’s politics, documentary, fiction and non, religion, literature, adventure, war, environmental, music, several Academy Award winners and many fine actors.

For a quiet relaxing afternoon in Puerto Vallarta, away from the beach, tourists, and heat, make your way to Incanto on Wednesday afternoons. Tickets are available at the box office at Incanto. For 100 pesos, you can’t beat the price.

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Christmas Starts Early in Puerto Vallarta

The first twelve days of December in Puerto Vallarta are busy with streets filled with people walking long distance pilgrimages to the church in the center of the city. These walks, sometimes done barefoot, are called peregrinations, which comes from the Latin peregrinari, meaning to travel abroad, invariably with no other mode of transportation than walking. They do so to honor the Virgin, Our Lady of Guadalupe, in which peregrination defines their sojourn.

The Días de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe bring parades and fiestas, with the main grand celebration taking place on December 12th, with no shortage of music, food, drink, and merriment in the streets of Puerto Vallarta.

In 1943, Reverend Don Parra Castillo took over the vicarship in Puerto Vallarta. Reverend Parra Castillo was responsible for many church associated actions, including the construction of the cathedral, surrounding walls and plazas. Reverend Parra installed a dedicated generator for continual electric power to the church; assigned the sculptures for the Stations of the Cross, carved by a renowned Mexico City artist, Jesús Ramirez; restored the fading painting of the Lady of Guadalupe, which he then had properly blessed; added the christening chapel; and remodeled the parish offices, among many other accomplishments. His major undertaking was the famous church tower and clock, to which the elaborate crown was added later. Reverend Parra began annual peregrinations, pulling the community together to contribute to the less fortunate.

There are few organizations in Puerto Vallarta who do not participate in these holidays. Hotels, supermarkets, schools, hospitals, and every fraternal group get involved. These moving displays depict the famous meeting of the peasant Juan Diego and the appearance of the virgin. Those who join the peregrinations arrive at the top of the cathedral steps and, if able, humbly finish the journey on their knees to travel the remaining few meters to the altar.

From the first day of December until the 12th, pilgrimages fill the streets, observed by tens of thousands who come to join in the festivities and make their own personal peregrination. Amazing amounts of food and gifts are offered by those who march, often carrying heavily laden baskets. Truckloads and carts with fruits, vegetables, grains and assorted groceries and household goods are unloaded each day and distributed throughout the community.

This tradition is a marvelous event, even if only viewing from a convenient balcony or on the sidelines from the sidewalk. The pageantry and ceremony are wonderful presentations of how Christmas is celebrated in Puerto Vallarta.

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Flor de Noche Buena

Poinsettias are in proliferation in Puerto Vallarta. Everywhere one looks; parks, stores, the airport, lining streets, in private homes, restaurants, hotel lobbies and on and on. You can buy a bundle of them at roadside stands for much less than you are accustomed to NOTB. In Spanish, poinsettias are called Flor de Noche Buena, the flower of Christmas Eve.

According to the Mexican legend, Pepita, a poor little peasant girl, traveled a long distance to honor the birth of the baby Jesus. She prayed for a gift to present at the altar of the church, since she was too poor to have afforded one of her own. An angel appeared to her on the side of the road, where angels seem to spend an inordinate amount of time in Mexico. Pepita was instructed to pick the ugly weeds surrounding her and present them upon her arrival at the house of worship. Her handful of wild, unattractive plants magically transformed themselves into beautiful leaves that observers felt resembled the blood of Christ. The shape of the inner foliage of the flower, to those looking for symbolism, resembles the Star of Bethlehem.

Poinsettias are not poisonous. A 50-pound child would have to eat more than 500 leaves to have a harmful effect. Considering the nasty taste of the milky sap that is emitted from the stalks, children and pets alike are likely to prefer tangerines, candy canes and dinner leftovers that adorn tables this time of year.

In the mid 19th century the poinsettia was named in honor of Joel Roberts Poinsett, the US ambassador to Mexico, who was a botanist and doctor. The red blossoms are actually not a flower, but basically a continuation of the leaves, the red color produced through a process called photoperiodism, exposure to dark, rather than light, attributed in part to the long nights of winter.

We will see the greatest profusion of Flor de Noche Buena in Puerto Vallarta, on the 12th of December, Guadalupana, the grand day that honors Our Lady of Guadalupe. Coincidentally, this is also the day of Joel Roberts Poinsett’s death in 1851.

Poinsettias can’t survive a frost but will grow into small bushes in the proper climate. In Nahuatl, the language of the Aztecs, the plant is called Cuetlaxochitl, meaning “flower that grows in soil,” so chances are anyone will have some success moving them from decorative centerpiece to outdoor garden. Good luck, and when shopping, according to my experts, for a long lasting poinsettia choose those with little or no yellow pollen showing.

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